The 2007 Barbera d'Alba Mattarello is a pretty, graceful red layered with perfumed red fruit. Silky tannins frame the long finish. The Mattarello was aged in French barrels, but the oak is beautifully balanced and only felt in the wine’s weight rather than in the aromas and/or flavors. This rich, textured Barbera needs to be opened for at least 30 minutes prior to serving. Anticipated maturity: 2009-2015. Proprietor Italo Stupino continues to ratchet up quality at Castello di Neive. This year I tasted through the entire range and came away most impressed with the Barberas and Barbarescos. The other wines, while certainly correct, weren’t especially exciting. The only real disappointment was the 2004 Barbaresco Riserva Santo Stefano, which falls short of the level of recent vintages. Importers: Bacchanal Wine Imports, Inc., New York, NY; tel. (646) 207-0115; Grassroots Wine Wholesalers, LLC; Birmingham, AL; tel. (205) 250-9060; Vintage Selections, Cape Canaveral, FL; tel. (321) 783-2700; West Park Imports, Sharon Hill PA; tel. (610) 532-3039; Castello di Neive MHW Ltd, Manhasset, NY; tel. (516) 869-9170