Another of the Sauzet trio (or, depending on whether one includes 2 barrels of La Truffiere – which I did not have chance to taste this vintage – quartet) of bottlings from the upper elevations of Puligny, their 2007 Puligny-Montrachet Champs-Gain exudes head-turning vividness of buddleia perfume; bright fresh lime, yellow plum and liquid floral perfume on a lithe but silken palate; and finishes with refreshment, lift, and invigoration, with tactile impingement of lime zest and chalk. This ravishing tonic of a Puligny is distinguished for now by its combination of elegance and intensity, but will probably gain in complexity over the next several years, and I would certainly feel free to follow it for at least half a dozen.
Gerard Boudot harvested the majority of his fruit during the first week in September, after what he considered to have been one last, critical week of ripening, and believing that it was more important to retain ripe acidity than go for a bit more potential alcohol. He reports having chaptalized selectively – largely at village level and to a very small degree – but the wines top out below 13% finished alcohol. Boudot did a rigorous selection not, he claimed, to remove rot but to cull any under-ripe berries and bunches. All of his 2007s were bottled by March, 2009 after their having spent 5-6 months assembled in tank, a period of passive watchfulness that is among diverse aspects of Boudot’s regimen to have been adjusted in recent years in response to high incidence of wines from the late ‘90s that displayed excessive oxidization after a half dozen years. The regimen of new oak here, incidentally, is 20-25% for the premier crus (with the exception of a bit more on Combettes), and never stands out as a factor detectable in itself. (The wines of this domaine legally belong to two entities, that of Domaine Etienne Sauzet and the company consisting of Boudot and his wife. In addition fruit is acquired for a few bottlings on long-term contract. I have not attempted to call attention to these differences in my notes, and in fact numerous crus represented here have multiple official owners.)
Importer: Vineyard Brands, Birmingham, AL; tel. (205) 980-8802
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