The 2009 Chassagne-Montrachet Les Chenevottes emerges from the glass with smoke, butter and layers of rich fruit. It shows plenty of intensity, but also comes across as a bit on the heavy side. Anticipated maturity: 2013+. This is a beautiful set of wines from Henri Boillot’s negociant line. The entry-level wines in particular offer fabulous value. If anything, those are the most interesting wines here. When tasting Burgundy it is tempting to assume that premier crus are better than villages, and grand crus are better than the premiers, but that is often not the case, especially in a warm vintage where lesser sites ripened to a greate extent than is typically possible. Shrewd readers will find many jewels in this lineup, but they won’t be in the most likely places. In 2011 Boillot will have several new wines in his range, including Referts and Combettes. The 2009 villages were bottled in November, while the premier crus were bottled in January 2011.Importer: Various US importers, including Massanois Imports, Washington, DC; tel. (202) 470-6769
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