The “one-star” Graacher Domprobst Riesling Beerenauslese* smells with almost ominous concentration of smoky, volatile botrytis notes along with white raisin, sultanas, dates, nut paste, and vanilla. Incredibly viscous and esszencia-like in the mouth, it proves to be shot-through with refreshing citricity, finishing like some dense bitter-sweet dried fruit and toasted nut cake slathered in both vanilla cream and fresh lemon. Exhibiting even more raw concentration than its Sonnenuhr counterpart, this B.A. is, however, also more seamless in structure and better-balanced in what is admittedly very raw youth. Look for this to evolve positively over at least three decades. Importer: Terry Theise Estate Selections, imported by Michael Skurnik Wines, Inc., Syosset, NY; tel. (516) 677-9300