The 2010 Malleolus is, like all their wines, 100% Tempranillo. The grapes fermented in stainless steel vats with indigenous yeasts and malolactic was in French oak barriques where the wine then aged for 18 months. Malleolus is the Latin word for majuelo, which in Spanish means small plot of vines. It has a balsamic nose of cigar ash and incense, raspberry leaf and a mixture of red and black berries, quite showy, in a commercial, well-oaked style. The palate is medium-bodied with abundant, grainy, dusty tannins. Good stuffing (but less than the regular Emilio Moro 2011), and for what they tell me the 2011 will be even better. 100,000 bottles produced. Drink 2015-2020.
Emilio Moro is a leading producer of modern, ripe, exuberant, showy and well-oaked Tempranillos from Ribera del Duero, which has had a big following among fans of that style. Having said that, I found the wines better balanced, with more judicious use of the oak compared with the ones produced five years ago. They work 200 hectares of vineyards that are vinified in their winery in Pesquera de Duero. All their vineyards are planted with the old Tempranillo vines planted with branches of the old vines they had in the Valderramiro and Resalso vineyards. They replace some 15 hectares every year to keep the old average age. The wines are more integrated and balanced and show less oak than in the past, while they are warmer and richer in style than the Cepa 21 wines they also produce. They are very happy with the 2011 harvest, Javier and Jose Moro told me they consider it even better for them than 2010. On the contrary, there will be no 2012 versions of Malleolus, or the single-vineyard bottling, as the year was too warm for their liking.
Importer: Michael Skurnik Wines, Syosset, NY; tel. (516) 677-9300
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