The appellation is little known because so few wines bear it, but Cabs from here, notably Laurel Glen’s, are notoriously long-lived. This wine is right there in terms of ageability. It’s enormously strong in tannins now, and bone dry, offering only hints of what it could be. But it’s a powerful, masculine wine that should hit its stride after 2010 and hold for another decade.——S.H.(9/1/2006)—— 91