At the northern limit of Chambolle-Musigny, the wines from Bonnes-Mares often take on the character of the solid, foursquare wines of Morey-Saint-Denis. But, as with this, they also keep some of the sensuousness of Chambolle. There’s lovely, sweet fruit nicely restrained by the acidity and soft, dusty tannins. New wood flavors also add to the mix. ——R.V.(3/1/2007)—— 94