I've always believed in the ageability of this cuvee and it's great to see that demonstrated time and time again. The 2005 Esprit de Beaucastel Blanc is another full-bodied white from the Tables Creek team that has texture and richness, while staying fresh, lively and pure. Notes of buttered citrus, crushed rocks, lemon oil, juniper and flower oil all emerge from this beautiful white that will continue to evolve gracefully for another 5-10 years.

The 2005 Esprit de Beaucastel Blanc is a combination of 70% Roussanne and the rest mostly Grenache Blanc and a touch of Picpoul that sees no new oak. It reveals classic notes of honeyed marmalade, intense tropical fruits, impressive underlying minerality, and a chalky character in its big, dry, full-throttle personality that is bursting with character as well as intensity. Tel. 805-237-1231; Fax 805-237-1314

One of the more distinctive whites in California, this blend of Roussanne, Grenache Blanc and Picpoul Blanc is produced by a leading Rhone family from France. It will appeal to Chard lovers for its rich, oaky creaminess, but offers a completely different flavor profile of nectarines, apricots and wildflowers.——S.H.(4/1/2007)—— 90