The 2009 Roussanne Stillwater Creek Vineyard was raised in neutral oak. It offers up an alluring perfume of mineral, melon, jasmine, and bee’s wax. The flavors are first-class but the wine is in need of greater depth and concentration. Drink it over the next 2-3 years. Novelty Hill and Stillwater Creek Vineyard are owned by Tom Alberg. The vineyard, located on the Royal Slope of the Frenchman Hills (way off the beaten path), was planted in 2000 and has acquired a reputation for the high quality of its fruit.Tel. (425) 481-8317; www.noveltyhillwines.com

Elegant and fairly light, with suggestions of white peach and lemon rind. There is a hint of bitter astringency, but the pretty, roundly fruity midpalate compensates, and with ample breathing time, it fills in nicely.——P.G.(11/1/2011)—— 88