For whatever reason, the 1999 Crozes-Hermitage Raymond Roure is good, but uninspiring. Herbaceous notes along with notions of old saddle leather and vague cherry/currant fruit are found in this soft, medium-bodied effort. It lacks the depth and ripeness expected from this potentially stunning vintage. Consume it during its first 5-7 years of life. Importer: Frederick Wildman, New York, NY; tel. (212) 355-0700

A densely colored wine from this small estate, bought by Jaboulet Aine in 1995. It is a great expression of Syrah, with aromas of ripe, concentrated fruits, dense tannins and flavors of new wood, spices and hedgerow fruits. It is a wine of great complexity, showing enormous aging potential. ——R.V.(6/1/2002)—— 92