The last vintage produced before its acquisition by Suntory, the 1982 Lagrange opens in the glass with aromas of smoky berries and cherries mingled with notions of gravelly soil. Medium-bodied, lively and charming, with an earthy, smoky finish, it was produced from yields of 56 hectoliters per hectare, back in the days when there was no second wine, but it remains a creditable effort.