In contrast to the open-knit, fully mature 1980 La Mouline, the La Landonne is just beginning to open up and reach full maturity. It has thrown plenty of thick sediment, but it retains a dark murky garnet color. The huge nose of roasted meats, Asian spices, truffles, minerals, and fruitcake is thrilling. Full-bodied, with huge quantities of fruit, and a gamy, rare steak-like taste, this is a thick, masculine, chewy wine that begs to be served with aged beef. Full-bodied and exceptionally concentrated, this is a tour de force for the vintage. Along with La Mouline, it is a candidate for the greatest wine made in France in 1980. Anticipated maturity: now-2010. Last tasted 8/96.

Earthy and tannic, this is fresher than La Mouline, with plum and cherry flavors, but heavy and a bit coarse. Drink now through 2000.--Guigal Cote-Rotie vertical. -TM