Bell Hill's 2014 Chardonnay somehow manages to deliver ample weight and richness in the absence of overt fruit. Delicate notes of struck flint, pencil shavings (it saw 16% new French oak for 12 months) and wet stone expand in the mouth to deliver volume and flesh, but the fruit is restrained, offering subtle hints of white nectarine and pineapple on the mid-palate. Finally, peach and citrus notes burst free on the lingering finish. It's a fine, unique expression of New Zealand Chardonnay, just not representative of the overall market.