The 2010 Gevrey-Chambertin shows lovely brightness and freshness in floral-infused red fruit supported by fine veins of chalky minerality. I especially like its energy. This is a terrific, entry-level Gevrey from Philippe Pacalet. Anticipated maturity: 2014-2022.
Philippe Pacalet’s wines stand apart from the vast majority of wines being made in Burgundy today. Pacalet favors a very natural approach to viticulture and winemaking. Whole bunches, with 100% stems, are crushed by foot. Alcoholic and malolactic fermentation are done with indigenous yeasts and bacteria. There is no SO2 added during vinification. A touch of SO2 is added towards the end of aging and again just before bottling. These are some of the most natural wines being made in Burgundy today. At the same time, it is impossible to escape the fact that the house style marks these wines to a greater degree than is common throughout the region. The Pacalet wines are undoubtedly beautiful, but they are also eccentric. They should only be purchased by readers who like and understand this style of winemaking, or by those who seek to understand it.
Importer: Louis/Dressner Selections, New York, NY; tel. (212) 334-8191
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