The Schmid 2010 Riesling Sunogeln – from a terraced, south-facing, meager gravel and eroded Urgestein site in Stratzing – smells peachy and fusil. Surprisingly broad on the palate and less focused or fascinatingly mineral than the corresponding Pfaffenberg, this offers soothing finishing satisfaction with a tincture of iodine and hint of wet stone, but represents, I suspect, an instance of de-acidification chipping away a bit at a Riesling’s relief. I last met with Schmid in order to taste his 2007s (on which I reported in issue 181), and my visit this June confirms him as a source of some seriously delicious and well-priced wines. He opened for me a few of his 2009s as well as his most recent collection. Schmid claims to have had only one-third of a normal crop in 2010 from his 40 acres (which are spread over some 50 parcels). “Some of my old vines didn’t even have any crop on them this year,” he notes.A Monika Caha Selection, New York, NY; tel. (212) 877-3558 with various importers, including Frederick Wildman & Sons, New York, NY; tel. (212) 355-0700