Lapierre’s 2006 Morgon fills the nose with high-toned distilled cherry, herbal essences, and sweet and pungent floral notes halfway between rose and narcissus. Meaty, mineral complexities emerge on the palate, with persistently bright fruit and herbal and floral pungency. This refreshing and thought-provoking wine can be enjoyed over the next 3-5 years, but only if stored continuously at cool temperatures, as Lapierre’s unfiltered U.S. cuvees are made with low to no added sulfur.Importer: Kermit Lynch Wine Merchant, Berkeley, CA; tel. (510) 524-1524

Lapierre bottled two versions of this wine, one using no sulfur, one using some sulfur. It makes a fascinating contrast, but this version without sulfur is inevitably the better, not losing one iota of the ripe fruit, the rich cherries and immediately attractive bonbon and candy flavors.