Only as it began to warm up in April, says Hiedler, did his 2004 Riesling Loiser Berg even begin to come out of its shell, and there is in fact something spring-like about the florality and the Mosel-like bright, juicy fruit-and-stone interplay exhibited by this relatively light-bodied yet glossy, satin-textured Riesling. The clinging finishing flavors are of pit fruits, fruit pits, flowers, spice, wet stone, salt, and a sizzling note that one is also tempted – again as much for lack of any better word as on account of direct evidence – to term “mineral.” I shall definitely be latching on to some bottles of this, and could imagine a fascinating evolution of its flavors. Importer: Terry Theise Estate Selections, imported by Michael Skurnik Wines, Inc., Syosset, NY; tel. (516) 677-9300