Laurent's top 1993s are massively concentrated, huge, intense wines that will require 8-10 years of cellaring. One of the villages where Laurent has some fabulous sources for great juice is his hometown of Nuits St.-Georges, not a particularly easy appellation in which to excel in 1993. Les Cailles is outstanding. It is a massive vin de garde that needs at least 10 years of cellaring. It displays gobs of black-cherry fruit, ferociously savage tannin, as well as the glycerin, extract, and concentration necessary to stand up to the wine's structure.A Patrick Lesec Selection (Paris fax # 011 33 1 42843822), various American importers