Hogue’s wines have been spotty of late, and the constant change in label design makes the wines difficult to track on the shelf. But this latest Merlot shows a marked improvement over recent vintages, a hopeful sign that this important producer is back on track. It’s got a nice, soft entry, with black cherry candy dominating the palate. There’s a slightly burnt, raisiny flavor running through the finish, as if the grapes were a bit roasted, but the tannins are smooth and for the price it drinks well and delivers an extra dollop of intensity. ——P.G.(11/15/2006)—— 86