The 1998 Fonsalette Cotes du Rhone Cuvee Syrah exhibits a typical black/purple color as well as a knock-out nose of animal fur, licorice, creme de cassis, truffles, and damp earth. This dense, huge, concentrated, formidably-endowed wine is a superb expression of southern Rhone Syrah. It is for serious collectors only. Anticipated maturity: 2006-2020. Importers: Alain Junguenet, Wines of France, Mountainside, NJ; tel. (908) 654-6173 and Martine's Wines, Novato, CA; tel. (415) 883-0400

If this Syrah could sing, its song would probably be "It Isn't Easy Being Green." (We'd probably want it to add a verse about loads of black pepper, through and through, too.) Edaname, mint, wintergreen and herbal aromas set the stage for a largely green-pepper and green-oak palate. It's tart, lean and needs time but, as one reviewer noted, it will probably "always be hard." Finishes long, with dry tannins.——W.E.(11/1/2001)—— 85