Remo Farina is an excellent operation (now taken over by the next generation and currently undergoing a winery refurbishment) and the estate’s beautiful Monte Fante Amarone is thickly extracted with mature aromas of black fruit, apple, cola and exotic spice. The wine offers character and pizzazz thanks to the polished quality of its tannins. ——M.L.(12/1/2009)—— 92