Domaine Zind-Humbrecht Gewurztraminer Herrenweg de Turckheim, Alsace, France

鴻布列什酒莊圖克汗-埃連維園瓊瑤漿白葡萄酒

點擊次數(shù)：13192

Incorporating much of this year’s harvest in the Herrenweg, Zind-Humbrecht’s copper-colored 2006 Gewurztraminer Turckheim is bone dry at 15% alcohol and correspondingly full-bodied. Oxidative aromas of leather, cocoa powder, and toasted nuts combine with scents and flavors of bacon so vivid this is almost bound to give vegetarians or devout adherents to pork-phobic religions pause (or perhaps an invitation to discover what so many of the rest of us crave?) Pungent smokiness and brine-like intensity of salt and alkali suffuse the palate and prompt salivation and invigoration. And this little power wine displays an uncanny ability to conceal its alcohol. An exercise in extremity, perhaps; but I can imagine more uses for such a striking dry wine over the next 2-3 years than I can for 75% or more of today’s Alsace Gewurztraminer. “After the experience of 2003,” remarks Olivier Humbrecht with an eye to his 2007s, “I’m never going to complain about having and extra gram or two of acidity.” In fact, Humbrecht considers 2007 ideal in nearly every respect, having permitted the grower the luxury of picking under optimum conditions for each grape variety and style. The fruit was completely healthy, insists Humbrecht, “you could walk through the vineyards for half an hour and fine one spoiled berry,” … except, of course, where the rot was noble! This year’s generally dry-tasting, relatively low-alcohol, high acid, high-extract Rieslings are not always the most youthfully approachable or winsome in style, but the best are profound; whereas Pinot Gris and Gewurztraminer ran to extremities of potential alcohol, even though the harvest was finished before mid-October. Far fewer wines went through malo-lactic transformation here from 2007 than usual – the pHs were often so low they proved inhospitable to the necessary bacteria. As for 2006, it’s clear that this is a year to test the meddle of any grower, and it is therefore not surprising that Zind-Humbrecht was among the estates to demonstrate that excellence and even excitement were not ruled out by the weather. Furthermore, he arrived at an average 2006 yield virtually identical to that of 2005. “Of course,” asserts Humbrecht, “quality in 2006 depended on how you handle your vineyards and your vines the whole year through. It was a vintage where, if you made a mistake in the vineyards, you got slapped pretty hard at harvest time, unlike 2007 where if you made a mistake, nature was forgiving.” The completion of fermentations in 2007 was spread over even more months than usual, often with late bottling; frequently with no racking; and my notes are based both on tastings from bottle early this year (sometimes referencing the wine’s performance from cask) and in a few instances solely on tastings from cask. Two 2007 Pinot Gris “Trie Speciale” – from Clos Windsbuhl and Clos Jebsal – were not even wine yet last I visited, and will in any case not be released for at least another year.Importer: The Sorting Table, Napa, CA; tel. (415) 491-4724

Representing most of the old vines and best parcels in this site (other fruit from there having been declassified), Zind-Humbrecht’s deep-golden 2006 Gewurztraminer Herrenweg de Turckheim is bone dry and packs 15.5% alcohol. Bacon, celery seed, peat, parsnip, distilled pit fruit esters, sage, and espresso offer an unusual, pungent aromatic and palate display. The torrified, charred, low-tone and pungent characteristics are reinforced – not necessarily positively – by alcoholic warmth, but a welcome streak of salinity helps keep the tasters (even if not the wine’s) juices flowing. The finish, though, both grips and smarts. This is another impressively audacious and, I suspect, take-it-or-leave-it Zind-Humbrecht wine, and I would myself do the latter. In any case, plan to drink it soon. “After the experience of 2003,” remarks Olivier Humbrecht with an eye to his 2007s, “I’m never going to complain about having and extra gram or two of acidity.” In fact, Humbrecht considers 2007 ideal in nearly every respect, having permitted the grower the luxury of picking under optimum conditions for each grape variety and style. The fruit was completely healthy, insists Humbrecht, “you could walk through the vineyards for half an hour and fine one spoiled berry,” … except, of course, where the rot was noble! This year’s generally dry-tasting, relatively low-alcohol, high acid, high-extract Rieslings are not always the most youthfully approachable or winsome in style, but the best are profound; whereas Pinot Gris and Gewurztraminer ran to extremities of potential alcohol, even though the harvest was finished before mid-October. Far fewer wines went through malo-lactic transformation here from 2007 than usual – the pHs were often so low they proved inhospitable to the necessary bacteria. As for 2006, it’s clear that this is a year to test the meddle of any grower, and it is therefore not surprising that Zind-Humbrecht was among the estates to demonstrate that excellence and even excitement were not ruled out by the weather. Furthermore, he arrived at an average 2006 yield virtually identical to that of 2005. “Of course,” asserts Humbrecht, “quality in 2006 depended on how you handle your vineyards and your vines the whole year through. It was a vintage where, if you made a mistake in the vineyards, you got slapped pretty hard at harvest time, unlike 2007 where if you made a mistake, nature was forgiving.” The completion of fermentations in 2007 was spread over even more months than usual, often with late bottling; frequently with no racking; and my notes are based both on tastings from bottle early this year (sometimes referencing the wine’s performance from cask) and in a few instances solely on tastings from cask. Two 2007 Pinot Gris “Trie Speciale” – from Clos Windsbuhl and Clos Jebsal – were not even wine yet last I visited, and will in any case not be released for at least another year.Importer: The Sorting Table, Napa, CA; tel. (415) 491-4724