You get the better parts of both worlds here: It’s both classy and casual. If it’s slightly austere on its own, with sharpness and palate-scrubbing acids, just place some spicy food alongside it and you’re home free. Ginger chicken is a particularly good match. The lemon-lime fruit is accented by slate and petrol. It’s more of a food wine than a simple sipper.——M.S.(10/1/2000)—— 86