Replete with hilarious new art work – ‘though I’m told the U.S. bottles will sport one of Kerpen’s older and more staid designer labels – his “one-star” 2009 Wehlener Sonnenuhr Riesling Spatlese* smells of brown spices vanilla folded into honey-drenched apple sauce with grapefruit and orange citricity offering bright counterpoint. The result is dynamic and luscious, finishing with alkaline, saline, and stony notes that add intriguing depth. Here is a perfect example of how to gain richness without sacrificing poise or refreshment; a lovely encapsulation of vintage virtues: subtly-ennobled ripeness, flattering richness, yet levity and refreshment. Look for this beauty to seduce over at least the next 25 years. Martin Kerpen’s 2009 collection Rieslings possess uncommon brightness for their vintage, and he continues to excel across a blessedly broad stylistic range, from legally trocken through nobly sweet – and, more importantly, with plenty of successful stops in-between. It’s worth noting that Kerpen is especially keen on the quality of his nobly sweet 2009s – wines that are certainly close to off-the-charts on paper – although as readers can see, my praise for them is more selective.Importer: Terry Theise Estate Selections, imported by Michael Skurnik Wines, Inc., Syosset, NY; tel. (516) 677-9300

Fresh apple and brown spices on the nose of Kerpen’s 2009 Wehlener Sonnenuhr Riesling Spatlese segue into a subtly tart, pungent palate presentation that however misses the lusciousness and length of the corresponding Bernkasteler. That said, the faintly oily texture as well as the underlying sense of nutty richness and wet stone that emerge in the finish offer a lot of appeal, and perhaps on another occasion this Spatlese – surely likely to remain fresh for 15 years – will be more expressive and seductive. Martin Kerpen’s 2009 collection Rieslings possess uncommon brightness for their vintage, and he continues to excel across a blessedly broad stylistic range, from legally trocken through nobly sweet – and, more importantly, with plenty of successful stops in-between. It’s worth noting that Kerpen is especially keen on the quality of his nobly sweet 2009s – wines that are certainly close to off-the-charts on paper – although as readers can see, my praise for them is more selective.Importer: Terry Theise Estate Selections, imported by Michael Skurnik Wines, Inc., Syosset, NY; tel. (516) 677-9300