A 2006 Puligny-Montrachet Champ-Gain represents Gagey family holdings, a portion of which is typically declassified to ennoble Jadot’s village Puligny. Piquant nuttiness and bitter-sweet floral notes in the nose usher in a wafting, elegant, silken-textured palate. The delicacy and relatively low acidity of this wine leave it prey to faint finishing woodiness and alcoholic heat. Still, the overall impression here is lovely, and while it seems destined for early enjoyment, a year in bottle may well bring greater harmony. The impressive collection of Jadot 2006s were slow both in their alcoholic fermentation and their malo-lactic evolution, which director Jacques Lardiere considered all to the good when it came to imposing structure and building complexity in wines of such ripeness and relatively high alcohol. In any case, Jadot whites seldom complete their malo-lactic transformation, and if one seeks a vintage to demonstrate the virtues of that approach, surely 2006 is the poster child. Furthermore, anyone who thinks that there are no values left in white Burgundy today has clearly not given Jadot’s wide range the attention it deserves. (These wines were assembled from barrel for my tasting and/or tasted from a range of individual barrels. I have generally made note of those wines not owned by Jadot and its associates by at least indicating whether grapes or juice were purchased.) Importer: Kobrand, Inc., New York, NY; tel.(212) 490 9300

A 2006 Puligny-Montrachet Champ-Gain represents Gagey family holdings, a portion of which is typically declassified to ennoble Jadot’s village Puligny. Piquant nuttiness and bitter-sweet floral notes in the nose usher in a wafting, elegant, silken-textured palate. The delicacy and relatively low acidity of this wine leave it prey to faint finishing woodiness and alcoholic heat. Still, the overall impression here is lovely, and while it seems destined for early enjoyment, a year in bottle may well bring greater harmony. The impressive collection of Jadot 2006s were slow both in their alcoholic fermentation and their malo-lactic evolution, which director Jacques Lardiere considered all to the good when it came to imposing structure and building complexity in wines of such ripeness and relatively high alcohol. In any case, Jadot whites seldom complete their malo-lactic transformation, and if one seeks a vintage to demonstrate the virtues of that approach, surely 2006 is the poster child. Furthermore, anyone who thinks that there are no values left in white Burgundy today has clearly not given Jadot’s wide range the attention it deserves. (These wines were assembled from barrel for my tasting and/or tasted from a range of individual barrels. I have generally made note of those wines not owned by Jadot and its associates by at least indicating whether grapes or juice were purchased.)Importer: Kobrand, Inc., New York, NY; tel.(212) 490 9300