The sweet and sour cherry, earth-scented 2007 Pinot Noir reveals a medium ruby color, tart acidity, and a pleasant, but uninspiring personality. Matanzas Creek Winery remains a work in progress as proprietor Jess Jackson moves aggressively to get this estate back to its glory days of the early 1990s.Available through Vin Lux Fine Wines, tel.(866) 462-4641; Fax (866) 853-1707; www.vinluxfinewines.com

Made from the coolish Bennett Valley region of Sonoma County, this Pinot is marked by acidity and some sharp, herbal flavors suggesting tobacco. Yet it has enough cherries, raspberries, red currants and cola to provide richness. Drink now.——S.H.(12/31/2009)—— 88