Sculptor/stone mason Michel Gracia has turned in another astonishing performance. His friendship with Alain Vauthier (Ausone’s proprietor) has no doubt resulted in some serious discussions on wine quality. Cropped at a remarkably low 20 hectoliters per hectare and made from a blend of 80% Merlot and the rest Cabernet Franc as well as a dollop of Cabernet Sauvignon, the 2004 boasts an Ausone-like perfume of black fruits, crushed rocks, and spring flowers. In the mouth, it’s full-bodied, powerful, rich, pure, and beautifully layered. Bottled unfined and unfiltered, there are only 358 cases of this tour de force in garagiste winemaking. Anticipated maturity: 2012-2030.