Tasted blind at the Burgundy 2012 tasting in Beaune. The 2012 Corton Charlemagne Grand Cru from Bouchard Père has a well defined bouquet, the oak present but more integrated than Sylvain Loichet’s: subtle with hints of white flowers and minerals developing with aeration. The palate is balanced and poised, the acidity well judged and combines well with the viscosity. It comes across as quite an understated and feminine Corton-Charlemagne that I was hoping would improve in the glass, but instead, it seems to lose some of its initial promise.

Very cold sample so perhaps less expressive than it might be. Still has intense citrus core clothed in mealy creaminess. Terrific freshness and an arrow of fresh citrus through a gently creamy texture. Very good. Long and with an attractive delicate grip on the finish. Does not have huge concentration in the middle but is finely balanced. (JH)

There is enough reduction present to knock down the expressiveness of what appears to be a very ripe nose of apple and floral aromas. The broad-shouldered flavors are impressively rich, full-bodied and well-detailed with a taut muscularity on the highly persistent and driving finish that is blessed with so much dry extract that is seems almost chewy. Despite the imposing size and weight of this classically styled effort the balance is impeccable and the length is genuinely stunning.