The 2004 Barolo Lazzarito Vigna La Delizia offers up scents of tar, smoke, spices, plums, licorice and tobacco on a mid-weight frame. The wine offers plenty of length and complexity in a relatively accessible, harmonious style. With time in the glass pretty notes of roses emerge adding further complexity. Anticipated maturity: 2011-2022. These 2005s are the finest Barolos I can recall tasting here. The estate seems to have toned down the super-ripe style of recent years and the results are striking. As I have written here before, Fontanafredda owns some of the most prized vineyards in all of Piedmont, and clearly has potential for making important wines of the highest level. Importer: Domaine Select, New York, NY; tel. (212) 279-0799