The best Sangiovese is reserved for Spargolo, a wine with a certain (and quite positive) history – the 1982 was probably the finest all-Sangiovese wine produced in Chianti Classico in that highly successful vintage. The 2001 Spargolo is the most successful effort in the succeeding two decades, a full and brilliant ruby-garnet in color, expansive, spicy, and ripe on the nose with much focused red currant fruit. Forceful and voluminous on the palate, the fine depth and definition suggest another decade of pleasurable drinking ahead. Importer: Banfi Vintners, Farmingdale, NY; tel. (516) 293-3500

Big and boisterous, with cola, root beer and raisin on the nose. The palate offers a ton of ripeness and hefty fruit, particularly cherry, plum and currant. Finishes toasty, maybe slightly burnt, with some cookie-dough sweetness. Mildly tannic in the long run. ——M.S.(9/1/2006)—— 89