Stringent selection and a relatively early (late October, early November) harvest of Riesling left as an amazing byproduct a 2005 Riesling Trockenbeerenauslese from Gaisberg and Heiligenstein. Lemon candy, brown sugar, and peach jam aromas set the stage for a concentrated palate presence of pure lemon meringue and a penetrating, pure, lemon, peach, and honey finish. Time may lend this some further complexity but its sheer purity and intensity are already quite compelling. Also recommended: 2005 Riesling Urgestein ($23.00; 86), 2004 Riesling Tradition ($41.00; 86+?), 2004 St. Laurent Klassik (not available; 86+?).Importer: Terry Theise Estate Selections, imported by Michael Skurnik Wines, Inc., Syosset, NY; tel. (516) 677-9300
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