Quady North’s Flagship is what the owners consider the best lot of wine of the year. Generously slathered in toasty new oak, this very limited (two barrel) reserve from the estate’s Frank’s Vineyard is not the blockbuster of the previous vintage, but shows exceptional winemaking skills. Black cherry fruit is wrapped in woody tannins, a yin-yang combination that works by dissonance rather than harmony.——P.G.(10/1/2011)—— 90