The Batard-Montrachet appealed to my hedonistic side yet wasn't complex, focused, or elegant enough to merit a rave review. Its nose, which initially was reminiscent of wet wool, revealed sweet pear and floral aromas with a few minutes of air. This is a broad, medium-to-full-bodied, and immensely rich wine crammed with ripe and spicy white fruits. Its mouth-coating, unctuously-textured personality lacks delineation yet delivers loads of pleasure. Drink it over the next 5 years. Importer: Clicquot, Inc., New York, NY; tel (212) 888-7575.

The Batard-Montrachet appealed to my hedonistic side yet wasn't complex, focused, or elegant enough to merit a rave review. Its nose, which initially was reminiscent of wet wool, revealed sweet pear and floral aromas with a few minutes of air. This is a broad, medium-to-full-bodied, and immensely rich wine crammed with ripe and spicy white fruits. Its mouth-coating, unctuously-textured personality lacks delineation yet delivers loads of pleasure. Drink it over the next 5 years.Importer: Clicquot, Inc., New York, NY; tel (212) 888-7575.