This is the best of Laetitia’s current sparklers. It’s the smoothest and finest in texture, with a mouthfeel that’s all silk and satin. The flavors, of raspberries, limes, smoky vanilla and yeast, are similar to the winery’s other bottlings, but the fine smoothness shoots the point score up. Now through 2012.——S.H.(12/31/2008)—— 93

A bit rough and scoury. Offers pleasantly rich waves of vanilla wafer, lime, Meyer lemon, leesy yeast and sweet smoky oak flavor, with a dry, crisply clean finish.——S.H.(12/31/2008)—— 87