The 187 cases of all-Pommard Shea Cellars 2011 Pinot Noir Shea Vineyard Block 23 received 75% new wood but the ginger and sassafras, sandalwood and orange rind inflections strike me as part and parcel of the fruit, whose bright, juicy dark berry complexion reflects the consistently small berries (even in 2011) on the block in question, which Shea thinks is a function of restricted water access at this site. That noted, the tannins here are ultra-fine. Distilled raspberry and blueberry high tones and wisps of floral perfume add further allure as this takes on air, and its long finish – unencumbered by its wood – projects the invigorating, vibrant glow and mouthwatering salinity that typify this Willamette vintage at its best. I would plan with confidence for enjoying this through 2022.
New Zealander Blair Trathen (formerly with Rex Hill) inherited Shea’s winemaking mantle from Drew Voit in the spring of last year, so the 2011s here were still largely Voit’s work. Their picking took place from the third weeks in October through November 2. “We did wave upon wave of crop-dropping and sorting,” reports Dick Shea, Aand potential alcohols were the lowest we’ve ever had,” the musts being chaptalized by a fairly constant amount to leave finished alcohol levels of between 13.0 and 13.7%. “Given high malic and low pH,” remarked Trathen, “these wines took a long time to chug through malo-lactic fermentation.” But, as usual, all of them were bottled in August, meaning more than a month younger – not to mention much closer to the termination of malo-lactic – than would usually be the case. (As explained in my introduction to this report, what that might mean for their bottle evolution – and that of so many other Willamette Pinots in a similar situation – I’m not prepared to speculate.) Also as usual, the Block 23 and Homer bottlings will have been released this fall (following on the heels of the Estate and West Hill), while Block 7 won’t be released before the end of this year or early next. (For considerable detail about the history and character of this renowned property, consult my 98 Issue 202 introduction.)
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