The 2006 Syrah Armada Vineyard was aged in barrel for 30 months in 20% new Rostaing barrels. Aromatically, it is the most brooding of these Syrahs with notes of smoke, meat, game, garrigue, and blueberry. The most tightly wound of the Syrahs, it is the one that will most profit from several years of cellaring. It should offer prime drinking from 2012 to 2021. Christophe Baron remains in fine form. His estate, just on the Oregon side of the Walla Walla AVA, consists of five small but distinct vineyards (41 acres in total – with more on the way). Syrah and the Bordeaux varietals are the principal focus but some of the finest parcels of Tempranillo, Viognier, and Grenache grown in the USA are on this estate. The vineyards are farmed biodynamically and much of the estate is planted on rootstock to prepare for the day when phylloxera works its way through Walla Walla. The wines are all fermented with indigenous yeasts and bottled unfined and unfiltered. The one most visible change since last year’s visit is that some of the plowing is now done by horse power. It was quite a sight to see a giant plow horse take tiny steps to turn from one row into the next. Cayuse is no longer a secret and it may be America’s toughest mailing list to crack (consider the prices compared to some of the other cult collectibles) but do whatever it takes to get your hands on a few of these gems.Tel. (509) 526-0686; www.cayusevineyards.com

In its youth, says Christophe Baron, the 2006 Syrah Armada Vineyard was "in your face" with chewy structuring tannins, but time has been kind to it; while it's still a powerful, boisterous wine, it's drinking very well today. Wafting from the glass with rich aromas of black truffle, ripe cassis and cracked pepper, this is a very full-bodied, ample Syrah that's still richly tannic, with structure to burn. While it's more super-ripe and fruit-forward than the Cayuse wines of today, its fruit is complemented by plenty of savory nuance. The finish is long and sapid.