No one else in Rutherford is making Cabs this tannic, and while the wine isn’t really representative of its appellation, it’s a dramatic, young cellar candidate. The fruity heart is ripe in blackberry, black cherry and unsweetened dark chocolate, with a compellingly long finish. Like its sister Cabs, it should begin to be drinkable by 2008, and hold for many years after.——S.H.(9/1/2006)—— 92
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