The Leitz 2009 Rudesheimer Bischofsberg Riesling Spatlese trocken has retained the designation “Spatlese” solely because his chief customer for the wine, a Norwegian importer, doesnt want to give up the Pradikat sign of pedigree. Juicy white peach and grapefruit are mingled with salt and crushed stone in a surprisingly mineral and positively shimmering performance for a wine from this site. There is a certain degree of underlying austerity to the finish, but this ought to be fascinating to follow over the coming 3-5 years. ”Yes it was dry,” says Johannes Leitz about the late summer and early autumn of 2009, “but drought stress? Who said anything about drought stress?” Evidently he either has a different definition for that condition or had different experiences from some of his colleagues, but I let the matter drop, and the quality of the wines here speaks eloquently both to Leitzs belief that nature delivered an almost ideal combination this year of near over-watering followed by dry heat (which he called “the parachute that saved us from a crash landing”), and to his success in what for others was a manifestly challenging season on the Rudesheimer Berg. Leitzs team began picking October 6 and continued for almost exactly one month. Incidentally, after working for nearly two decades from an expansion of his original cellar under the family home in suburban Rudesheim, Leitz will soon have completed a large new facility nearby.Importer: Terry Theise Estate Selections, imported by Michael Skurnik Wines, Inc., Syosset, NY; tel. (516) 677-9300