I really liked the winery’s 2003 Cab Franc, for its dark, black fruits laced with licorice and streaks of tarry tannin. What’s missing here is that defining structure; they’ve slipped this one into the soft, smooth, generic red category. Sweet fruit, some smoke and a bit more stiffness to the tannins still make this wine a relative standout, but it’s lost its edge.——P.G.(8/1/2007)—— 87