The 2008 Barbera d’Alba Superiore Vigna della Madre reveals gorgeous delineation in its sweet dark cherries, plums, minerals and menthol. This is a cool style of Barbera that impresses for its understated elegance, finesse and sheer minerality. I loved it. Anticipated maturity: 2012-2018. Sergio Germano is doing wonderful work in Serralunga. There is no doubt his wines deserve more recognition. As is often the case, I find the Barolo Riserva from Lazzarito – one of Serralunga’s top sites – too heavily marked by oak. Otherwise, these are all very fine offerings. Germano recently inherited a parcel in the famed Vigna Rionda. That vineyard is now being replanted, but once the vines are in production, Germano will have a fabulous quartet of Serralunga vineyards from which to draw. But the pressure is on, as there is now no reason the wines can’t and shouldn’t be great. Importer: Petit Pois, Moorestown, NJ; tel. (856) 608-9644; Oliver McCrum Wines, Oakland, CA; tel. (510) 654-9159; Sussex Wine Merchants Moorestown, NJ; tel. (856) 608-9694