Here you have a massively constituted wine joined to well-charred oak that results in an enormously rich, satisfying and, more importantly, balanced sip. The fruit and berry flavors are hugely extracted, the tannins gentle but complex, the acidity near perfect. It all adds up to a young bruiser. If you must drink it now, have with rich foods like well-marbled beef or lamb. ——S.H.(11/15/2002)—— 93