The luxury cuvee, the 2005 La Garrigue Cantarelle (75% Grenache from a single parcel of 100-year-old vines and 25% Syrah) is sensational. It might need another year of bottle age, but it is an incredibly generous, savory wine with classic creme de cassis, scorched earth, roasted herbs, and licorice in the aromatics. Full-bodied, concentrated, but with silky tannins and relatively lofty alcohol, this is a heady, full-bodied, quintessentially Provencal wine to drink over the next 10-15 years. Eric Solomon, European Cellars, Charlotte, NC; tel. (704) 358-1565