The 2004 Capo Martino reveals terrific purity, depth and definition in its layers of sweet, ripe fruit, toasted oak, licorice and menthol. With air the wine’s frame fills out and the richness of its expression becomes apparent. This blend of 70% Tocai Friuliano, 30% Pinot Bianco, Ribolla, Malvasia and Picolit spent 13 months in Austrian oak tonneaux. Anticipated maturity: 2007-2012. Silvio Jermann was among the early leaders in the move towards high quality wines in Friuli. His Vintage Tunina, a field blend of late-harvested fruit, was a trail blazing wine in the 1980s even if today it is not always as outstanding as it used to be. Jermann has finally finished construction of what can only be described as a massive, cavernous cellar in Ruttars, the source of the fruit for his Capo Martino and Pignolo. The estate makes a set of entry-level varietal wines as well as its top bottlings, most of which are blends. Jermann appears to have been more successful with his whites in 2004 and 2006. His 2005s seem to lack body as well complexity. Importer: Empson, USA, Alexandria, VA; tel. (703) 684-0900.