The “one star” 2004 Zeltinger Schlossberg Riesling Spatlese * (A.P. #32) – which at the time I tasted it was still under consideration to be released as an Auslese – smells of baked apple, marzipan and white raisin. In the mouth, this wine is creamy and rich, though without the juiciness that lent some of the other best 2004s there particular infectiousness. Instead this wine creeps up on you and convinces you of its profundity in a long, polished finish that reprises baked apple and almond along with a glaze of honey, a lick of stone, and a delectably salty note. Importer: Terry Theise Estate Selections, imported by Michael Skurnik Wines, Inc., Syosset, NY; tel. (516) 677-9300