Serious, structured, and muscular is the 2000 Cotes du Rhone-Villages Clos du Caillou. This opaque purple-colored offering is sweet, rich, and pure. With gobs of creme de cassis, liquid mineral, pepper, and spice characteristics, it should drink well in another year, and last for a decade. Importers: David Hinkle, North Berkeley Imports, Berkeley, CA; tel. (510) 848-8910, and a Christopher Cannan Selection, various American importers, including: Michael Skurnik, Syosset, NY; tel. (516) 677-9300 and Diamond Wine Merchant, Oakland, CA; tel. (510) 567-9897