In the North Coast, Sauvignon Blanc achieves grassy, herbal, lemony flavors, is tart and a little sour, and has high acidity. So it is with this wine. The trick is to soften it. Winemaker Steve Test has given this one a little French oak but otherwise has chosen to let the vineyard, in Napa's warm northeast corner, express itself. ——S.H.(11/15/2000)—— 87