The 2004 Amarone della Valpolicella Classico offers more vibrancy and freshness than the 2005. The wine possesses notable clarity in a layered expression of bright red fruits. Perfumed aromatics add further complexity as the wine gains volume with air, revealing the full breadth of its pedigree. This focused, energetic wine is delicious now, but will be even better in another year or two. Anticipated maturity: 2009-2016. I was very impressed with the wines I tasted from Brigaldara. The Amarone is aged in cask and is made in a fairly approachable style, while the single-vineyard Amarone Case Vecie is a richer wine that also sees some French oak. Both wines are well worth seeking out. Importer: Vinifera Imports, Ronkonkoma, NY; tel. (631) 467-5907

Currant, floral and raisin character on the nose, picking up a bit on the palate, but falling a bit flat and short in the end. Drink now. 5,000 cases made. -JC