The 1998 Shiraz Reserve is an example of power married with elegance. A beautifully balanced effort, with the oak kept well in the background, it exhibits plenty of blackberry and currant fruit intermixed with notions of smoke and creosote. This well-textured, pure, large-styled (for Pikes) Shiraz displays a sense of restraint as well as equilibrium. Drink it over the next 7-10 years.Importer: John Larchet, The Australian Premium Wine Collection, imported by USA Wine West, San Rafael, CAphone: (800)-485-5753

Smooth and medium in weight, this is a fine example of the lavishly oaked style, the deep sweet cherry fruit wrapped in a dark, toasty cocoon with leathery accents adding interest. Even tannins, black-toast and coffee accents show on the long finish. There’s a lot of wood here, but it’s better-utilized than in many other wines.——W.E.(11/1/2001)—— 89