The bottle of Pierre Morey's 1988 Meursault 1er Cru Les Perrières was showing beautifully, unfurling in the glass with a complex bouquet of mandarin, candle wax, preserved lemon, fresh field mushrooms, iodine and brown butter. On the palate, the wine is medium to full-bodied, layered and concentrated, with a rich, textural profile that belies its tight-knit core and tangy acids, concluding with a long and penetratingly chalky finish. Interestingly, this 750-milliliter bottle showed much better than a magnum of the same wine that I drank a few months earlier—the combination of the 1988 vintage and Morey's reductive style perhaps favoring the smaller format?
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