Rueda is best when it’s fresh and dancing, but this 2006 is showing too many signs of the hot year from which it came. It’s already tired and soft, with compost and mealy citrus aromas going head to head with grapefruit and marmalade notes. Tasted in December 2007, this was probably a tastier, fresher wine six months prior.——M.S.(4/1/2008)—— 84